#76 – VSPB cell chamber construction part 4
Apr.19, 2010 in
Home Construction
Part 4 of 4
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April 19th, 2010 at 12:24 pm
Thats gorgeous man, nice work, nice craftsmanship, nice design. Whats the output on this cell design?
April 19th, 2010 at 1:02 pm
rubber stopper works best for blowout
April 19th, 2010 at 1:31 pm
you can try 318 its harder to find & expensiv but its used in sergical & dental tools & it is resistent to corrosion.
April 19th, 2010 at 1:50 pm
Those flexible black caps with bands are really flexible PVC not rubber. Heat would dry them out and make them crack if they were natural rubber. Sealing the threads of the hard PVC and making them easy to spin out requires a coat of high heat silicone grease such as Chemplex 710 used for laser printer fusers, paintball guns, restaurant equipment, etc. Fills the voids in the threads, prevents sticking of plastic to plastic and is excellent in cold weather and with the cell heat.
April 19th, 2010 at 2:29 pm
Wouldnt a neoprene stopper in the tube with a light coat of silicone grease to keep it from sticking do the same as the Saran Wrap/bag but not be prone to drying out and cracking, melting from heat, etc? Additionally you can lanyard the stopper to the canister so you dont lose it when it pops. Lowes has stoppers in the same bins as the plastic and stainless items, HD may also have them. No need for the overcap that way. Just drive a screw in the top of the stopper to hold the lanyward.
April 19th, 2010 at 3:22 pm
That’s at least 20 cents worth. I’m going to try it. Thanks!
April 19th, 2010 at 3:43 pm
the rubber cap/w ss hose clamps from depot or lowes that i use, can be drilled into, holds heat a lot better than pvc and can be removed anytime. all my pvc threaded parts leaked in the end. just my 2cents…
April 19th, 2010 at 3:54 pm
I have found some research that states 410 resists corrosion best
April 19th, 2010 at 4:39 pm
just get a pop-off valve…20 or less….why micky mouse it with the cap blow off?
April 19th, 2010 at 4:46 pm
so tell me, what works best….304 or 316 stainless? Have you had power to your cell for any length of time? I found that after using a few times…it has a film on it the prevents/hinders electrolysis.
April 19th, 2010 at 5:15 pm
This guy is like the Martha Stewart for guys!
What else can you teach us?
Seriously though! I like what you are doing and can’t wait to build my own.
April 19th, 2010 at 5:53 pm
zero….nice work, but where can you get the stainless steel for your plates? I was using fender washers but found they are not a high quality enough and once the end is eaten off, it loses its ability to produce hho gas.where is a excellent place to get SS in small sheets?
Tom
April 19th, 2010 at 6:05 pm
Even if it is permeable to hydrogen, it would take time to permeate. It’s not cheesecloth. The rate would still be far too slow to have any negative impact. We’re using it as soon as it’s made.
April 19th, 2010 at 6:39 pm
Have you checked on the permeability of Seran or other materials to hydrogen? I have seen an thought place forth in separating hydrogen and oxygen to use Seran as hydrogen supposedly passes through it while oxygen being larger will not. That would defeat the whole thought of having a booster. Also, you can get neoprene bonded to washers to seal the bolt holes with. It is flexible and airtight. Use one on each side of the hole.
April 19th, 2010 at 7:25 pm
Fantastic presentations, Zero! A suggestion – to prevent heating the PVC where the bolts pass through, how about drilling the holes a bit larger and using a small section (same as PVC thickness) of tubular nylon as a pass-through spacer for each bolt?
April 19th, 2010 at 7:50 pm
couple weeks ago, I tested a similar blow out on my own system. the blow out work exactly as plotted. using a lighter, I worked in closer and closer until I was only about 1 inch from the open blow out hole before I got a pop. implication is that the gas disapates so rapidly, that the chance of a perilous buildup caused by the open blow out is pretty slim. but we are all, constantly seeking ways to make these systems simpler, safer and more reliable.
April 19th, 2010 at 7:53 pm
D) HHO disipates nearly instantanously. There would be no buildup to speak of.
April 19th, 2010 at 8:01 pm
A) You’d surely hear it.
B) You hit the kill switch to the entire HHO system, EFIE included.
C) If you didn’t hear it, you’d run a small leaner than desired for a while. No huge deal.
April 19th, 2010 at 8:34 pm
While driving, for a blowout, what happens to the oxygen sensor & efie adjustment, in relationship to the engine mileage & harm to the engine (if any)? Since there is small or no hho going into the intake,the efie is adjusted to compensate for presence of more oxygen. Without the hho, now the oxygen sensed by the oxygen sensor is less. Yet the efie adjustment is still the same as if there was hho present. Is electrical disconnect needed for both cell & efie? To return engine to gas only mode.
April 19th, 2010 at 9:22 pm
Say the blowout cap blows,(I’m guessing you would hear it?) leaking hho into your engine area. What is going to happen with the hho gases that are still being produced?(maybe the gases should be vented via a hose to outside the vehicle, for safety). Maybe a relay could be added in case of a blowout, to disconnect power to the cell. Just trying to reckon safety first.
April 19th, 2010 at 9:59 pm
It’s excellent to see something like this, 2 days ago I sent an e-mail to John Aarons asking him about doing a design similar to this (PVC Cap). You’re definately on the right track. I’m sure there are a lot of people sitting back and letting ya’ll figure it out the best design before trying themselves. We really need a site dedicated to tracking where everyone is in this process.
I hope to see this working soon. I’d like to run my 2004 Honda Rancher on Hydrogen-
April 19th, 2010 at 10:37 pm
Probably right. That said, overheating of this cell design has not been an issue. Not ever.
April 19th, 2010 at 11:16 pm
Yes Z, it may work OK for pre-heating in the winter, but CERTAINLY NOT for cooling, as the engine coolant can and does run around 200 F.
April 19th, 2010 at 11:55 pm
I reckon you would do as well if not better to mount barbs high/low on the body of your tube, then pump fluid through a piece of stainless steel brake line (3/8in 6 foot long) that is coiled around your coolant inlet hose (one from radiator to water pump) … water temp in that hose is pretty constant regardless of other conditions at about 140-160F depending on the vehicle …
April 20th, 2010 at 12:52 am
lol